FFP 2012: The Tidal Flats

Beginning the crossing of the Goose River mud flats

The Bay of Fundy is known for its high tides.  In fact it has the highest tides in the world and during the spring months they are at their highest.  At the upper end of the Bay they can reach a height of 16m.  As the water recedes each time it leaves a number of large tidal mud flats and during our hike along the Fundy Footpath we were required to cross three of them.  Each has its own challenge and rewards and the reward is always more than worth any challenge.  I would even say the challenges are rewarding.

The butterfly that greeted us on the west side of Goose River

The first mud flat is likely the most challenging and illustrates the height of the tide really well.  Goose River, at the western boundary of Fundy National Park, has a narrow valley where Goose River and a small tributary come together before entering the Bay of Fundy.  This means that we would cross two watercourses before getting on our way.  The mud here is deep and you can easily loose your footwear as my sister learned the hard way.  As we made our way along the river bank we had to watch the sharp shale bedrock that was exposed all the way around the crossing.  As we neared the top of the mudflat we looked back and absorbed the scenery and were amazed by how low the tide now was.  Not an hour earlier, as we ate lunch on the beach that contained the tidal flat from the Bay, the water was much deeper.  We crossed the river a final time above tide line and above where an old dam was once located.  I snapped a picture of a butterfly that was flitting among the boulders and grasses along the shore.  This was the official start of the Fundy Footpath and we were no longer in Fundy National Park.

Looking up along the shore of tributary to Goose River just before we crossed.

We had to hike approximately 5km in order to reach our next tidal flat crossing and we had to do it in less than 3hours in order to avoid having to cross way up stream above the trail.  Where the mud at Goose River is the problem, the issue at Goose Creek is the length and the water temperature.  I have found that, no matter what time of year you make this crossing, the water is always numbing cold.  As you approach the 3/4 mark of the crossing you can no longer feel your toes.  When you make it across the flat you sadly realize that you still have to wade through deep grasses that grow along the many spring fed streams before you get to the campsite you so long for.  The cold springs move the numbness from your feet clear to your hips it seems.  Once we cleared the tidal flat we made camp at the Goose Creek campsite and in short time we all donned dry socks.  From time to time we checked to see how much water had flowed over the flats we had not long ago crossed.  For those of us who hadn't seen it before it was likely surprising to see how much water filled the river valley.

The cap of Martin Head beyond the cold mud flats of Goose Creek as seen in a trip in 2009..

From Goose Creek you can actually see the next tidal flat we would be challenged by.  The scenic Martin Head isthmus is an iconic location and I will likely discuss it in a later post.  From Goose Creek we would spend our morning heading towards it through the wooded trail.  Before getting to the road we make a trail down to the long sandy beach for an early lunch as we wait for the tide to recede far enough to cross the mud flats and gravel of Quiddy River.  The muddy portion of this crossing is much shorter than the others but that does depend on where you cross.  There are mud flats at Martin Head that are great to play in and explore.  In some places there are strong indications of the settlements of years gone by and the mud flats no doubt hide much more.

The mud flats at Martin Head are covered by water in this 2007 photo.  Luckily we crossed a much narrower section.

The mud flats are just one of the great iconic features of the Fundy Footpath and I hope you continue to watch for future posts on this great hike.  I will continue to describe the iconic features of the FFP while providing you with a look into my personal views of this great wilderness area.  If you want to help with this great trail you can check out the Friends of the Fundy Footpaths or the Footpath website.

FFP 2012: The Parks

This is the second in a series of blog entries on my hike across the Fundy Footpath in the spring of 2012.  The first entry about the hikers, introduced you to the people I was hiking with.  This entry will tell you a bit about where our hike started - Fundy National Park. and ended - Fundy Trail Parkway.

This small stream is one of many along the section of trail in Fundy National Park.

The Fundy Footpath is a grueling exercise that tests a person's resolve and determination.  Our plan was to move from east to west.  We would start in Fundy National Park (FNP) and hike towards the Fundy Trail Parkway (FTP) while covering 50km of steep coastal ravines and forests.  I prefer to hike the trail this way as I find it more rewarding to end at the Big Salmon River.  The 8km of hiking inside FNP is along old logging roads and while it is scenic, the road walking makes it seem anti-climatic when you end there.  Every hike needs a beginning though, and the Park would be ours for this years rendition of adventure on the Footpath.

The hikers were dropped off at the Pointe Wolfe parking lot at the southwest corner of FNP on a cool but sunny Friday morning.  Everyone was in good spirits and wore tired smiles as the night before likely was restless with excitement and anxiety.  Adrenaline and enthusiasm would carry us through our first day in which we would hike 17km to Goose Creek.  The red covered bridge we drove over to cross the Pointe Wolfe River was just an indication of what lay before us.

 Lately there  has been a great deal of debate over the roles National Parks play.  Some feel they should serve as a showcase for our nation's natural beauty while others feel they should act as a sanctuary that protects natural habitats and beauty.  Depending on how you frame your opinion, it may hinder how you view Fundy.  As a relatively small park, Fundy has little infrastructure, outside the golf course, so if a urbanized, full service escape is what you are looking for, Fundy is not likely your destination of choice.  It is for that reason though, a frequent destination of mine.  I hope that, as more and more Parks are moving towards high end, service oriented, tourism development, Fundy can resist that demand.

As I mentioned earlier, the hike in the Park is along an old logging road, but the end is a spectacular beach surrounded by tidal mud flats and steep valleys.  Goose River acts as the western boundary of Fundy National Park and this could be unfortunate as the entire River deserves protection.  As we leave Fundy we play the "In Fundy, Outta Fundy Game near the signs marking the Park border.

The next Park we encounter is the linear Fundy Trail Parkway.  A number of years ago some people thought it would be a great idea to promote the Fundy coast here as an undeveloped coastline by developing it.  It is unlikely that the tax payers of New Brunswick truly know, or understand maybe, what they are paying for in regards to the Fundy Trail Parkway.  The road is built over steep valleys that are prone to drastically changing weather conditions not just seasonally but daily.  The steep valleys create high volumes of runoff when the weather brings rain or snow, and when you put a road in a steep location such as the area around Big Salmon River, controlling run off, and maintaining roads becomes a large undertaking.  Unforunately some of this has resulted in the development of large washouts along small streams and Long Beach Creek.  In many places you can see where the FFP has been impacted and become impassable due to this washing and slumping.  I don't place all the blame on the development of the Parkway as some has to be attributed to more intense rainfalls by nature lately, but I still don't agree with the manner in which the FTP was developed.  I think New Brunswickers, especially those who love nature and wild spaces should be upset that their tax dollars are being spent on creating this environmental degradation and more so that we will continue to pay for it as it will likely never pay for itself.

The next entry will be more cheerful and showcase the beauty of the FFP.  I promise.  I just really needed to let people know again about the threats to the FFP in the name of tourism.  In my mind we would have been much better off to promote more backpacking and wilderness excursions to the area.

FFP 2012: The Hikers

I once again was privileged enough to be able to get out and hike the Fundy Footpath (FFP) this spring.  Many people have been asking "When are you going to post your pictures to Facebook?"  I'm going to resist that temptation and instead post my photos here in a manner which will hopefully show you various aspects of our trip and the scenic icons of the FFP.

Before I can discuss the trip though I need to introduce you to the hikers who completed the 50km, 4 day trip, with me.  This introduction is important because all of these people are important to me and they are all family.  I'm not sure if such records are kept on hikers of the FFP, but I'm sure the feat we completed is rare.  You see there were three generations of Whalens on this trip.  I'll introduce you to them from youngest to oldest but will not be using the youths names.

Our youngest hiker was 12 years old and despite being the youngest and shortest he likely hiked the fastest pace.  My nephew impressed all of us with his ability to keep walking even when missing home big time.  Never liking to smile, he struggled to hide his smile every time we came across waterfalls or shorelines.  His inquisitive mind peppered me with multiple questions about the trail, camp sites, and various other topics.  It was a treat to have him along and I hope to share many more backpacking adventures with him.

My oldest nephew was the tallest hiker with us yet he chose to lumber along at a leisurely pace but his long legs easily gobbled up the terrain.  He took in all that was around him and his 15year old perception missed little.  He absorbed the small things and stood in awe of the larger events such as Tweedle Dum Tweedle Dee Falls where he couldn't resist the urge to wade in and splash around in the pool at the bottom of the falls.

My sister Becki was also completing the FFP for the first time and hadn't hiked with me in over 15years, when we completed the Dobson Trail together.  As a single mother it was her determination and hard work ethic that pushed her through some blisters and getting stuck in mud during the Goose River tidal flat crossing.  "This is awesome!!" became her motto over the four days including after eating her 4th piece of cake at the opening weekend celebration of the Fundy Trail Parkway when we finished the hike.

Luke is my brother and being only a year younger than me, we have experienced many camping adventures together and know each other well.  He is strong, dependable, and resourceful.  With him along, I had no worries that his boys would be well looked after as would the rest of us.  He is not what you call a frequent flyer when it comes to backpacking but he spends a great deal of time outside in the woods and even though he seldom smiles he always enjoys it.

The oldest and most experienced hiker, outside of myself, on the trip was my father.  His Montreal Canadiens hockey jersey has seen every inch of the Fundy Footpath.  He has likely hiked the trail end to end more than half a dozen times.  His slow and steady pace allows him to see what others miss.  His pride in watching his kids and grand kids enjoy doing what he brought them up doing can easily be seen in his easy smile.  His role as mediator insured that even during the toughest day on the trail every one got along.  He could lighten a tense moment with a simple word or touch.


The last hiker was me.  I have hiked the FFP, end to end, more than 20 times including a couple of solo treks, not to mention a number of partial hikes along the trail.  I was organizing the hike this time and planned the hiking schedule and meals.  The goal was to keep a relaxed pace and make the best of the camping time. I was so proud to be a part of this team and my father at 62 easily reasserted himself as my hero.  I only hope that I can hike the trails with my son at 62.

Over the next few blog entries I hope to tell you about a few iconic locations along the trail and how three generations observed the many natural assets of this trail.

Flying High with an RV Grin

This blog entry appeared in the May 8th Kings County Record.  I wrote after taking a flight with Rick Keirstead.  The Keirstead's actually own the airport in Sussex and ask people to respect it.  They work had at maintaining the grounds and runway.  I was at the airport as a final evening for our Men's Group and wow it was a great night.  Enjoy.

 

There are moments in your life where you simply end up with the right people at the right time.  In that moment good things are bound to happen if you let them.  Last fall I started spending my Monday evenings with a great group of guys as part of my search for clarity on my faith.  This last Monday we ended our talks by gathering at the Sussex airport for a barbeque. 

Yes Sussex has an airport.  It is privately owned now but used to host planes as part of the spraying for spruce bud worm on behalf of the Province.  The airport sits atop Marshall Hill, just south of Sussex.  As I drove along side the runway in my car I felt like I was already high in the air as the view was phenomenal and looked over the valley near Fox Hill and north onto Sussex.  Rolling farm land was coming alive with spring well established.

I parked my car and grabbed my meager contribution to the party, mustard and ketchup.  The guys all greeted me with easy chatter as I took in the planes sitting along the runway and the contents of the hanger.  I thought it a bit odd that a canoe hung off the wall until I remembered who the guys were that spent many hours here.  Todd Byers, Rick and Ross Keirstead were all pilots but also eager outdoor enthusiasts. 

Ten minutes after arriving Rick asked if anyone wanted to go up for a flight in his plane and I didn't hesitate to take him up on the offer.  He walked me through the process of getting into the cockpit and helped me strap in.  After letting the RV-6 warm up for a few minutes we pointed it down the runway.  It seemed like no time and we were up in the air.  The small plane gobbled up runway faster than my dog gobbles up Cheerios.  It seemed impossible to me when Rick told me our take off speed was about 140mph.  Once he pointed the nose down the ride was smooth as glass as the plane caught wind and started to glide.

Once on our way Rick banked to the left and back around towards Hidden Valley.  I've hiked there many times and scoured over topo maps and Google aerial photos so I was sure I would know it from the air.  I quickly picked out the familiar ravines of the Valley but couldn't believe we were already there.  I truly don't think we were in the air two minutes.  A plane made the trip to Hidden Valley much easier that was for sure and the view was definitely another perspective and no aerial photos compared to seeing it from the plane.

Our next destination was Pleasant Lake via the Cedar Camp valley and I couldn't help but think "What a great way to scout the watershed I work to conserve."  Rick pointed out a few features and lakes he was familiar with and talked about spotting moose on previous flights and how the Fundy Coast area was one of his favorite places to go and "play."  I snicker to myself at how different our definition of play is.  I can't help but grin from ear to ear and I could feel it on my face.

Rick takes us over the new mine site and I am impressed by the neat layout of the site and how clean it looked considering all that was going on there.  From here we followed the Kennebecasis River towards the Town of Sussex.  I noted the large number of cars at each of the bridges and figured that the sea run trout must be running.  We took a quick flight over my house and I thought "Man, Seth would love this."  

Positive Four Years

There are defining moments in a persons life that lead him or her toward what they will become.  Life is made up of many of these moments.  Graduation, first job, marriage, kids, death of a loved one, or even a bad choice.  One of the best decisions I have made in my life truly changed the direction I was going.  I met the woman who would become my wife and in a relatively short time we committed to building a life together.  In the short time since we have truly been blessed beyond my wildest dreams.  This fact sank in very deeply the other night.

I dabble in politics and recently, for the second time, put my name on the municipal ballot for councilor in the Village of Sussex Corner.  I was hoping to serve my second term.  On election night I sat and watched my computer screen as the results came in and was surprised when I captured the most votes as councilor.  While this was a surprise, I was more taken back by the number of people who then offered congratulations through my email and Facebook accounts.  People from all over.  I struggled to acknowledge everyone and as I did I started to think "Wow!  How did this happen?  How did I get from there to here?"  It was a humbling feeling as I thought "I didn't do this on my own.  Family, friends, strangers, and God all played a role."  How do I honor this?

Don't get me wrong.  I have struggles and it isn't all peaches.  I work a great job that I love a great deal but it isn't for the money.  I struggle with trying to raise our kids in a manner that allows them to be who they are while instilling faith and a knowledge of right and wrong.  My marriage, like all marriages, also has its good days and bad days but one thing that never waivers between my wife and I is the commitment to be there and work at it.  Through all the struggles though we more readily embrace and enjoy the blessings.  The little things and big things keep us smiling.

Through this past election I have come to a realization.  It isn't just about politics.  It is, in fact, more about helping others build a better life.  It is about building a sense of community where people feel welcome, safe, appreciated, and respected no matter their lot in life.  So to honor all those who have helped me get to where I am, I will strive, over my next four years as Councilor, to bring a sense of community not just to Sussex Corner, but to whomever I might come into contact with.  I want to strive to keep a positive attitude no matter what challenges I am being faced with because I believe that positivity is contagious.

My first task in that is to ask all of you to stay positive with me.  Lets not complain but work towards solving our issues.  Lets share our blessing with those who are struggling to find theirs.

Here is to a positive four years and beyond.

Praise for an Undervalued Natural Gem

This edition of Wandering was published in the Kings County Record recently.  It has a slight political tone and that was intentional.  Historically Parson's Brook has been beaten by man and yet it continues to provide a beneficial ecological function to the two municipalities it runs through.  One of these has taken steps to protect it while the other community continues to pursue and allow activities that impact this nice brook.  This could be a brook near you so ask yourself, how can you protect yourself and that aquatic system.

 Nature is a magnificent thing.  It is full of inspiration on multiple scales.  From watching a small butterfly flutter over a rushing river, to a massive and impressive rock face your eyes can hardly take in.  The ear pounding crash of thunder or the deafening silence of a tranquil sunset each inspire even the most disheartened soul.  With that being said, many people undervalue many parts of our natural world.

            Parson's Brook, which flows along the same valley as the Newline Road, is likely one of the most under valued natural assets we have in Kings County.  It flows approximately 8k from its source near the junction of the Newline Road and Church Avenue.  It crosses the Newline three times before taking a turn to the northwest.  From here it flows over the flat agricultural lands that make up the southern portion of Sussex Corner before entering into the old rifle range and the Town of Sussex.  It takes a final turn north, crosses under Main Street, before entering Trout Creek.

            It hasn't always flowed that way though.  Many years ago it was altered to make room for a horse track near where the Sussex Corner Elementary School now sits.  Shortly after this change was made, the lower part of the Brook started drying up during the summer months.  The water instead chooses a path through the deep, coarse gravel deposits as its route to Trout Creek.  This fact has led many people to perceive Parson's Brook as simply a ditch and many treat it as such. 

            To me this unheralded Brook is a testimony to nature's resilience against many of the scars man thrusts upon it.  Parson's Brook had its entire course changed and when it starts to settle into its new course, someone decides to dredge it, or alter it once again.  Parson's Brook keeps searching for its natural course though and every spring, and sometimes in the fall, it flows fast and furious through the man made channel, trying to cut a channel that will allow it to function as it naturally should.

            The fish in Parson's Brook are as resilient as the Brook itself.  With elevated stream temperatures, pollution, and passage barriers it is surprising that any fish live in this stream at all but anyone who has walked the Brook above any of its crossings on the Newline Road can attest that fish, including brook trout, are there.  On one occasion I was incredibly surprised when I entered the Brook at a deep pool and it was so full of fish that they couldn't scatter without a number of them solidly running into me.

            Recently I took sometime to observe some of the smaller components of Parson's Brook.  I come to realize that it deserves more respect than what many give it.  If we leave it alone and give it its space it would eventually function as it should.  With a healthy, vegetated, stream bank or riparian zone it could effectively mitigate the impacts of flooding.  The naturally functioning riparian area would also prevent pollution and litter from entering the stream while also serving as migration corridors for deer, fox, birds, and other wildlife.  This natural corridor could also provide the active community with a new hiking or biking trail that would be ideal for people of all skill sets as it is relatively flat.

            As I watched two young boys play along a small tributary, oblivious to the trash that sits nearby, I can't help but think that we need to begin to look at Parson's Brook in a different light.  We need to understand its value to the natural world and our own man made world.  If you want to understand Parson's Brook and see how it has been impacted I recommend you take a walk along its route.  Start at the crossing at the junction of Newline Road and Needle Street and walk downstream along the left bank.

A Spring Alarm Clock

What is that noise?  Can you hear that buzzing sound?  It's like someone is running a wood planer on idle across the field there.  Do you hear it?  What is it?  I think I'm getting closer.  Now it sounds like a small plane over my head.  Its constant, like what Spiderman's spidy sense might sound like.  Wait, look at the tree there; it's moving.  Wait...its....its bees, tens to hundreds of bees!!

This is the conversation I had with the dog this afternoon as we played fetch after work.  The large ash tree in my yard was literally alive with the continous motion of the bees.  Once I realized what the noise was it was a bit unnerving to stand under the tree like I normally do to kick the dogs soccer ball.  Once I got over the thought of getting stung I started to grin at the buzzing reminder of spring.  Its like it was an alarm clock telling me it was time to awake and get into spring.

Flattering Thougtfulness

This is kind of cool.  The Sussex Literary Initiatives and Cultural Events group has asked me to mentor part of a writing workshop to be held in Sussex.  The date is June 2nd but I will fill you in on details as they become available.

This is very flattering, as I am certain there are many people involved that could easily host such a mentoring session for youth.  It is nice to learn that my writing is being recognized in writing circles.  When you continue to write and simply do it for the enjoyment of writing, I think, good things simply happen.  I look forward to this event and likely learning more than I might teach.

Geocaching in the Kennebecasis Watershed

It is so easy to occupy your mind and soul when playing outdoors.  There is never a lack of something to do.  Not long ago though there was someone who cleverly created a link between technology and the outdoors.  You can have the best of both worlds, unless of course you'd rather sit on the couch.   Geocaching blends gaming and internet technology with an outdoor treasure hunt and luckily for me I've been able to mesh that into my job as well. 

Everyone likes a treasure hunt whether you're young or old.  It being the Wednesday before Easter many of you are probably right now gearing up for one of the biggest treasure hunts of the year.  Imagine if someone hid your favorite Easter treats all over Kings County and provided you with the coordinates on how to get there.  All you have to do is follow the electronic pointer (GPS) and get close.  From there put your senses to work to locate the treat.  How can't you find that fun?

Geocaches are diverse.  They range in size from the size of your pinky to the size of your head and contain a wide array of little trinkets or treasures.  You can find them in many locations such as streetscapes or deep forested ravines.  This diversity broadens the appeal of geocaching to a wide audience and it was this wide audience that the Kennebecasis Watershed Restoration Committee wanted to tap into.

The Kennebecasis Watershed Restoration Committee (KWRC) has created a number of geocaches.  They contain information on healthy living and on ecosystem health.  There are five KWRC geocaches, one for each sub-watershed, and each provides educational information on different topics.  They also contain a customized, non-trackable, wooden geocoin.  A geocoin, for those that regularly geocache, is a collectible.  The KWRC geocoins are chronologically numbered and dated.  The KWRC will use the numbered coins as a way to award players.  If they check the KWRC website, which is found on the geocoins, they will be encouraged to "Like" their Facebook page.  Through this action they might win some prizes through random draws conducted by the KWRC but only if they possess the geocoin that matches the number drawn.

Geocaching with the KWRC is a great activity that provides you the possibility to win free stuff, the chance to see some great landscapes, and an excellent form of exercise, all while learning.  For the KWRC it provides the environmental non-profit group with increased exposure to a broad audience and educates them on how through conserving and protecting our natural ecosystems we can all live a healthier life, while actually encouraging them to get off the couch.

         If this doesn't get you itching to be outdoors, how about the fact that fishing season is upon us?  The season will likely be early this year so you don't want to wait to long before getting on the water.  More than likely I'll be telling fish stories soon here in my column.

Perspectives on Ice

I wrote this sometime ago and it was printed in the Kings County Record.  As part of my day job I am contracted by the provincial government to perform "RiverWatch" duties and thus I get to observe river ice at various stages.  The late stages of thawing typically interest me the most as it provides some great angles for taking pics.  Hope you enjoy the read.

 

You can climb it, slide and skate on it, sculpt it, and even eat forms of it.  As a hockey player my favorite thing to do is skate on it but for this column I want to write about the natural beauty of river ice.  The ice changes minute to minute.  It heaves and moans as the air temperature rises and falls.  Depending on the light conditions the ice can appear angelic or depressing.  The diverse character of ice has led me to often stop and take pictures of it.  Like a good model it always takes a great picture.

Frozen waterfalls are like a room full of models.  Every icicle, every water drop creates an opportunity for a great picture.  Every frozen cascade or stranded ice sheet is a playground to explore.  The smooth, hard top surface of an ice sheet is a stark contrast to the brittle, rotting, rock carved, newly exposed underside.  Up close or from a distance the ice is attractive its white glare catches your attention against the dark slate bedrock that serves as its backdrop.  Your adventurous side wants to climb both the rock and ice and your appreciative side makes you take it in before tackling the challenge of scaling the slippery face.

The best time of year to observe ice is during the late days of winter or early spring days as it is melting.  As the sun and water work to naturally sculpt and smooth the ice it glistens as it succumbs to the natural forces.  This in no way means ice is powerless.  If you have ever sat on a lake shore and listened as it loudly cracks as it pushes against the shore, the sound will give you a haunted feeling.  Its physical power is easily demonstrated when, as water makes the change to ice it expands.  If the water was sitting in an old tree trunk or in a seam of a rock the ice will crack them both open.  The strongest man in town couldn't do that without the help or a tool of some sort.

One of the coolest features of ice is the way the water of a stream runs beneath it.  Now before you step out on a deep ice covered river, make sure the ice is thick enough, I suggest no less than 4", to hold your weight.  To be safer, and to see this cool feature better, I suggest wandering up a small stream where you likely won't get that wet if you accidently fall through the ice.  The thin, glass like ice, is the best for watching and listening to the stream gurgle below the ice.  From time to time air bubbles will move below you as the oxygen searches for a way to the open atmosphere.  This site can be a bit mesmerizing and like so many other features of river ice it can hold you in a curious gaze.  Fortunately for me, through my work with the Kennebecasis Watershed Restoration Committee I often get up close and personal with river ice and often I get to have lunch on a blanket spread over a stranded sheet in front of a covered bridge.  Get out there and explore the ice near you but be cautious and wander safely.